The Ancient Aksum obelisk of Ethiopia
Thursday, April 30th, 2009Aksum Ethiopia is the beginning and the end. It seems to be situated at the end of world. Not much seems to be beyond. On the other hand, it was here where the ancient axum empire began to exist about seven hundred years B.C. The north of Ethiopia and what is now Eritrea used to be one of the most powerful states of the first five centuries A.D.
The axum kingdom was the capital of the state, and practiced Christian teachings from the 4th century onwards although by the 7th century there was an expanding settlement of Muslims in the region. It is from ancient axum that Ethiopian culture expanded southward and where today one can experience its historical past.
Aksum is an important administrative and tourist centre of Tigre province. It seems to be as much traditional and quiet as wealthy. However, tradition and quietness is what a newcomer notices at first. What is fascinating when one travels around Ethiopia is that every town is completely different in its style, history and the impression that it makes on those who arrive.
Whereas the town of Gonder is known for its characteristic Art-deco Italian style, Bahirdar is by contrast quite modern and Aksum is somehow middle-age African style. It is what you would expect of a remote location in the mountains. Its remoteness gives one the feeling it is somehow still separated from the rest of the world, which I suppose in a way, it still is.
If you want to feel a brave traveller seeking to be in the middle of a desert, come to Axum and you’ve got the feeling! Axum is particularly rich in ancient history. The best known remains of the ancient capital are stelas and obelisks. Just like the pyramids of Egypt, they mark the burial grounds of former rulers and important state officials.
Of all the monolithic columns that were raised, only one is left standing, surrounded by several smaller stelas. The biggest of all has never been successfully constructed and could have broken apart while being lifted into place. Since then it has laid there in three picturesque pieces. The one advantage for the observer is to be able to examine this impressive monument at close quarters, as it presents itself in the most accessible way.
Undoubtedly the most splendid view of these Ancient Axum obelisks is from the hill opposite. As the evening sun sets one can reflect on the power and glory of former days and on the futility of human life. Or, if your thoughts are not so inclined, you can just enjoy the moment.
Ancient obelisks are to be found all around Aksum. They are a spectacle that can be seen from virtually any vantage point in the town. However, taking the road to Gonder in a westerly direction, one can visit another remarkable and huge stela field on the left-hand side of the road. Here, the stelas are much smaller, but they are also older than ones which mark the centre of Aksum.
Still in the Gonder direction, opposite the stelas, the so-called “Queen of Sheba’s palace” is located. Only the lower parts of the walls have remained, but a few artefacts can still be seen, like steps to lower rooms and the remnants of water ducts.
It might be of no interest to some people, but for somebody with a bit of imagination and love for ancient stones, one can paint a mental picture of how it once might have looked. Today, mostly sheep live in the old palace rooms and who seem perfectly happy there and definitely add to the spirit of the place. There is more to be found on Aksum Ethiopia in the article on ancient aksum written by Dr. Rubinkowska, Warsaw University, Department of Languages and Culture.